The first-generation Mazda 3 is a fun-to-drive peppy compact, accessible as a sedan or hatchback. The Mazda 3 has actually front-wheel drive and sport-tuned independent suspension.

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2009 Mazda 3 sedan. Click because that a bigger photo
the rides ~ above the exact same platform as the Ford Focus and Volvo S40. The Mazda 3 comes v a 4 cylinder engine and also a five-speed hands-on or four- or five-speed automatically transmission. Rear brakes room discs only. The interior is sporty tight, through supportive former seats. The steering tilts and also telescopes. The glove box is huge enough to host a laptop computer. Mazda 3 is a simple car and also is simple to occupational on. Parts are widely obtainable and not very expensive. Mazda 3 problems: Front end and suspension problems: behind shock absorbers have the right to leak, causing the rear finish of the vehicle to feel "loose" and also bouncy top top bumps. The top shock absorber mountain can additionally break off at greater mileage. The shock mount might come individually or together with the shock absorber. Replacing behind shock absorbers is easy and not really expensive ($130-$170 per side). Former struts have the right to leak too. Replacing front struts is a bit more expensive: $250-400 every side. Former lower manage arms can also go negative at greater mileage. Replacing both front regulate arms costs $480-$620. The wheel alignment can need to it is in performed after the front struts or manage arms are replaced. Vibration in "Drive": A vibration native the engine the is more noticeable at idle when the transmission is in Drive might be resulted in by a negative top engine mount.
Leaking behind shock absorber
This part is very common come fail. Instead of the optimal engine mount could price $160-$230. The car doesn"t start in Park yet starts in Neutral: This problem could be brought about by rust in ~ the bar where the shifter cable connects to the transmission (front lower part of the transmission). The repair is very straightforward and inexpensive. The pivot suggest needs to it is in lubricated or the lever needs to be replaced. The car won"t start, the engine won"t revolve over: examine the battery first. If the battery is OK, a corroded connection at the starter control terminal can additionally cause this condition. If the control wire connector is corroded, the terminal demands to be cleaned and the cable connector requirements to be replaced. Check Engine light v the password P0131 / P2251 : The Technical service Bulletin 01-015/10 recommends check the front air/fuel proportion harness whereby it rubs against the bracket. This picture shows where. If the harness is damaged, the TSB recommends instead of the A/F sensor. The bracket demands to be bent away from the harness. A faulty transmission control module or TCM can reason the automatic transmission to change harshly and the AT light to come on. The difficulty must it is in diagnosed properly and if the is brought about by the issue with the TCM, it need to be replaced. The TCM is basic to replace, but the component is quite expensive. One aftermarket TCM (part) is cheaper online, but the quality can not constantly be on par. Engines: The Mazda 3 comes v a 148-hp 2.0-liter inline-4 (model LF) or a 156-hp 2.3-liter 4-cylinder engine, model L3. Both room solid, reputable DOHC engines. Both engines have actually been effectively used in plenty of Ford, Mazda and also other vehicles. With great maintenance, one of two people engine deserve to last end 250K miles. timing chain or time belt? Both Mazda 3 engines have a time chain instead of a timing belt. The timing chain doesn"t must be changed unless it"s stretched or there space some other concerns with it.
Fuel economy The EPA rates the 2004-2008 Mazda 3 v a 2.0-liter engine and also automatic transmission at 23/31 mpg (10.2/7.6 L/100 km) city/highway.
2009 Mazda 3 sedan interior.
2009 Mazda 3 sedan.
Mazda 3 engine
v this fuel consumption, the 2.0L Mazda 3 is supposed to travel up to 405 miles, or 651 kilometers, on one 14.5-gallon (55 liter) tank. The 2007-2008 Mazda 3 v a 2.3L engine and automatic infection gets 22/29 mpg (10.7/8.1 L/100 km). Handling and ride: many thanks to that sporty suspension, the Mazda 3 feels lively top top twisty roads and also solid top top the highway. The journey is firm however compliant. The steering is an exact and responsive; the turning radius is small. Even the basic 2.0L engine has plenty that power. ~ above the downside, part road and tire noise is noticeable. Mechanical: The Mazda 3 has actually independent suspension and disc brakes ~ above all four wheels. The steering rack is hydraulic, but the steering pump is thrust by an electrical motor. Anti-lock brakes are available. Dynamic stability control (DSC), traction control, side and also side curtain airbags are easily accessible on late models. Pros: funny to drive, sporty styling, handy interior, peppy engine, tight transforming radius, obtainable Bose audio system, huge glove box. Cons: road noise, models without side airbags score poorly in side affect crash tests, no trunk release on the remote, some interior materials are not of top quality (e.g. Carpet), at an early stage models were at risk to rust, questionable reliability. Overall: The Mazda 3 is a sporty compact car. It handle well and has a solid trustworthy engine. Fuel economic situation is mean for the class; if you desire something more efficient, look for the Honda public or Toyota Corolla. The Toyota Corolla is also much more reliable. Earlier Mazda 3 models were susceptible to rust. Later on model years are better. The 2008 and also 2009 version years are more reliable, but watch out for troubles mentioned above. Check out also: What usage is OK for a supplied car? Related reviews: Honda civic 2006-2011 Mazda 3 2010-2013 Chevrolet Cruze 2011-2015 Toyota Corolla 2009-2013 What come look for when buying a offered Mazda 3: stop the vehicle if there is blue smoke coming from the exhaust or if the engine is as well noisy.
Rust roughly the rear wheel wells is common. A small rust spot deserve to be repaired, but major rust should be avoided. See if the struts and shock absorbers watch dry. A leaking strut or shock absorber will need to be replaced. inspect the wait conditioner. Throughout the test drive, watch if the auto drives straight and doesn"t drift. Watch if the infection shifts smoothly. Protect against the car if the "AT" or "Check Engine" light stays on, as part problems could be expensive come repair. A fail TCM (Transmission manage Module) can reason the transmission to jerk and also the "AT" and "Check Engine" irradiate to come on. The part is expensive. Watch out for tires noise; if not rotated regularly, behind tires tend to wear unevenly, which may an outcome in a loud ride. If the engine vibration is felt v the shifter in Drive, the height engine mount might be bad, although it"s not very expensive. Mazda 3 maintenance tips: part high-mileage Mazda 3 engines are well-known to consume oil. Inspect the oil level regularly. Adjust transmission fluid when it becomes dirty. If girlfriend don"t recognize when transmission fluid was adjusted last time, friend can examine it ~ above the dipstick (see the photo).
2004-2009 Mazda 3 dipstick location

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If the looks red and also clean, it"s OK; if it"s dark, it"s better to adjust it. Mazda 3 has an independent behind suspension for far better handling, yet with this design, the behind tires wear more on the inside. If you want your tires to critical longer, rotate them often. The owner"s manual for 2007 Mazda 3 proposal rotating tires every 7,500 mile (12,000 km) in normal driving conditions. Tires are rotated front to back, top top the exact same side. Without regular rotation, rear tires often end up being cupped, i beg your pardon will result in loud ride. Price for common maintenance items: Oil change, tires rotation: $45-60. Transmission liquid flush: $150-200. Drive belt replacement: $120-160. Prior brake instead of (pads and rotors): $310-430. Wheel alignment: $90-130.