One morning this previous winter, a friend"s 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier cranked however failed to start. The starter seemed to be to run free, together if under no load. Removed of the valve cover revealed a very loose timing chain. This write-up will sheathe removal of the valve cover and also a former engine tear down. Then the chain and associated components will it is in removed and inspected. Correct cam, piston and crank timing will be re-established. A brand-new kit that timing components will it is in installed. Then we will certainly re-assemble and also test the work. There is constantly the possibility, on an interference engine prefer this, that valve damage may have actually occurred. A leak down test is right here, but we walk not have the equipment. We also felt confident that the chain coming loosened on start-up make valve damages unlikely, together opposed come under load. This is a complicated repair (we gained a $1200 estimate) but we completed it successfully and I great you great results if you tackle this job. The task at a glanceTools: Floor or scissors jack, supports, 10,13 15,18 and 21 sockets, all sizes of ratchets, socket extension bars,universal socket adapter, 10mm allen wrench modified come 3cm, big straight tongue screwdriver, pry bar because that locking the crank pulley, speak wrench, (inch and also ft lb) 10" lengthy 10mm and 15mm box finish wrenches, 18mm and 24mm wrenches, breaker bar(s) Materials: Lacquer thinner, motor oil, oil capture panParts: time chain kit (Cloyes 9-4201S), time cover gasket (Fel-Pro TCS46041), crank wheel bolt, valve cover gasket set (Fel-Pro VS50596R), if needed. Price of parts: timing kit $129.53, timing cover gasket $23.86, crank bolt $7, valve covering gasket, if needed, $25.27Time: 15-20 hours
1) Disconnect the battery. Security first.2) eliminate two 10mm nuts an installed on studs in the driver"s side of the valve cover. These secure the metal fuel lines.
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3) Loosen yet don"t eliminate the studs. There are two 13mm nuts welded onto these studs. Currently there will be room to relocate the throttle cable parentheses to allow clearance because that the coil load to be removed.4) Unplug the wiring connector come the coil pack assembly.5) remove the four 10mm coil fill mounting bolts.6) Wiggle and lift the end the coil pack. The accelerator cable bracket must be loosened enough to acquire past now.7) eliminate the accelerator cables from the bracket. The bracket will certainly come in addition to the valve cover.8) It will be advantageous to remove two 10mm nutted studs securing the fuel rails in ~ the radiator next of the engine. This provides more wiggle room to disengage the fuel lines native the brackets.9) Unclamp and also remove the rubber water tap going to the air intake above the accelerator body. Be mindful here as I broke it turn off of the air intake box. I would certainly recommend remove the air intake.10) Loosen and then eliminate all 14 the the 10 mm bolts stop the valve cover. There are four in the center now visible through the coil pack removed.
|Remove these 2 10mm nuts first|
11) Tap on the cover with a rubber mallet. Use a tiny prybar in ~ reinforced clues on the cover to gently...and I average gently, occupational the cover loose. Tenderness repetition payment off. Hear for that tiny "pop."
|There are four more under the "Ecotec" labeled coil cover|
12) traction the cover up and also now remove the 13mm stud top top the firewall side. Over there is a floor lug behind it that have to come off. The prior (radiator side) stud can stay on v the accelerator bracket.
|Take care to gently pry in ~ a location with part "meat" ~ above it|
13) Lift and pull the valve cover turn off the engine, moving it toward the passenger side. Now the chain have the right to be inspected. This one was exceptionally loose.
|The 13mm stud (on the left) should be removed, the other just loosened.|
|That"s means too loose to job-related (guide removed for clarity).|
2)Break the lug nuts ~ above the ideal front wheel and jack the up, remove the wheel and set it under on a block of timber or a stand.
3) remove the wheel fine splash guard. This is complicated piece hosted in through 6-8 8mm hex head screws, and two panel fasteners. There are likewise several wires attached come the piece that must be eliminated from holders. Store track of every fasteners and also the location of wires to ensure efficient and complete re-assembly.
4) eliminate the serpentine belt through inserting a 3/8" ratchet straight into the square feet (from below) and and rotating upward. Organize it there while slipping the belt off.
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5) remove the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) bolt. Jam a pry bar between one the the three cross arms of the balancer and also the peak of the steering knuckle and lock it in place. Location a 21mm socket top top the bolt and also use the greatest breaker bar you can get to rest the bolt. I provided a 24" bar. Over there is lot of of transforming radius to rest this extremely torqued bolt. It transforms off in the standard counter-clockwise direction.